BALI THE GODS SPEAK WHEN JAVA WAS LOST TO THE MOHAMMEDANS 485 YEARS AGO, SO THE LEGEND GOES, THE DISGUSTED HINDU GODS HUNTED AROUND FOR A NEW HOME . THEY CHOSE THE ISLAND OF BALI, AND SINCE THEIR EXALTED RANK DEMANDED A HIGH DWELLING PLACE, THEY CREATED A CHIN OF MOUNTAINSE MOST SACRED EASTERN END OF THE ISLAND, THE GODS ERECTED THE HIGHEST OF BALI'S MOUNTAINS, THE 10,308FOOT VOLCANO OF GUNUNG AGUNG, REGARDED BY THE BALINESE AS " THE NAVEL OF THE WORLD . " HALFWAY UP THE SLOPE OF AGUNG, THE PIOUS BALINESE BUILT THE HUGE MOTHER TEMPLE OF BESAKIH, AND EVERY HUNDRED YEARS THEY HAVE HELD A SOLEMN RITE THERE TO RID THE ISLAND OF GHOSTS . LAST WEEK, IN THE MIDST OF THE ONCE-A-CENTURY FESTIVAL, AGUNG ERUPTED WITH CATASTROPHIC FURY . AGUNG GAVE FAIR WARNING . ONLY LAST MONTH, AFTER MORE THAN 100 YEARS OF INACTIVITY, IT BURST FORTH WITH A SHOWER OF SMOKE AND BRIMSTONE THAT KILLED 17 PERSONS . THERE WAS WORRIED TALK ON BALI THAT THE GODS WERE ANGRY BECAUSE THE PEOPLE HAD NOT ASKED PERMISSION TO HOLD THEIR FESTIVAL . BUT THE PRIESTS AND THEIR DISCIPLES STAYED ON TO PRAY . AT 7 O'CLOCK ONE MORNING, AGUNG ERUPTED AGAIN . THE VILLAGES OF SEBUDI, SORGAH, AND SEBIH WERE ENGULFED BY A LETHAL BLACK CLOUD OF SEARING, 230O ASH THAT ROASTED HUNDREDS WHERE THEY KNELT . RIVERS OF GREY-BLACK LAVA BOILED OVER AGUN'S SOUTHERN LIP AND FLOWED IN FIERY RIVULETS DOWN STREAM BEDS, RAISING CLOUDS OF STEAM ; HEAVY RAINS, POSSIBLY CAUSED BY THE HEAT OF THE VOLCANO, MIXED WITH THE SULPHUROUS ASH TO FORM AN ACID THAT KILLED PLANT LIFE FOR FIVE MILES AROUND . FOR FIVE DAYS AGUNG BELCHED DEATH . AT WEEK'S END HHE DEATH TOLL STOOD AT CLOSE TO 1,200, AND ANOTHER 200,000 WERE LEFT HOMELESS . AS SURVIVORS STREAMED INTO TOWNS AT THE BASE OF THE MOUNTAIN, MANY SUFFERING THIRD-DEGREE BURNS FROM A TREK OVER BEDS OF SMOLDERING ASHES, INDONESIA'S PRESIDENT SUKARNO DECLARED ALL BALI A DISASTER AREA . THERE WAS LITTLE HOPE THAT AGUNG'S FURY WAS OVER . EXPERTS IN DJAKARTA PREDICTED EVEN MORE VIOLENT ERUPTIONS TO COME AND ORDERED ALL RESIDENTS TO LEAVE THE AREA FOR AT LEAST TWO MONTHS .